72 hours in Sibu: More than just kampua, kompia and mee sua

72 hours in Sibu banner.

By Lian Cheng and Marlynda Meraw

SIBU holds a special place in the hearts of many Sarawakians. The biggest town along the mighty Rajang River may not be the most advanced city in Sarawak, but it is the place of origin for many who have migrated to other parts of Sarawak and even other parts of the world following Sibuians’ adventurous and hardy disposition.

Situated at the confluence of the Rajang and Igan rivers, the riverine town is the gateway to the Central Region of Sarawak such as Song, Kapit and Kanowit, thus its significant role in this part of Sarawak.

Due to Sibu’s inland position and the fact that much of it sits on peatland, the town faces more challenges than other cities in Sarawak such as Kuching, Miri and Bintulu in making progress and advancement.  However, the strong-willed Sibuians try their best to make things work, and one of the ways is the community effort to shape it into a food haven, offering the cheapest eats and drinks in Sarawak.

With just 72 hours to explore Sibu, you’ll find ample time to visit its charming spots and tourist attractions. However, even with the most adventurous appetite, it might be impossible to fully savour all the delicious, reasonably priced Foochow dishes that await you. Each meal offers a taste of local tradition, making it all the more tempting to linger a little longer and relish each flavourful moment.

Sibu kampua and Sibu laksa.

Day 1 — Hunting for murals and exploring heritage

To prepare for a busy day, start with Sibu’s most famous dish—kampua—which is the most common breakfast among all races especially the Foochow, and Sibu laksa, if you can manage them both.

We tried the kampua at Meng Chien Café, which is commonly known as the Coffeeshop of Yellow Chairs to the locals. The kampua here is well-known among locals, but there are many kampua stalls in Sibu which are equally famous and delicious, earning Sibu the moniker of original kampua town. A search online will unveil the many options.

We selected Meng Chien Café because it also offers Sibu laksa, so that for tourists who are short on time, they may kill two birds with one stone.

Sibu laksa differs slightly from its Kuching counterpart. The laksa at Meng Chien has a more subtle flavour, with the taste of dried shrimp being more pronounced. It’s worth trying for the sake of comparison.

As for beverage options, indulge in the uniquely named “Nepenthe” or “elixir of forgetting”. It’s a simple glass of saccharine Chinese tea, but its name has an intriguing charm. The creative Sibuans have transformed this ordinary tea into something unforgettable, with a name that whimsically promises to help you forget, even as it leaves a lasting impression on your heart.

Only in Sibu—”Elixir of Forgetting’, or sweetened iced Chinese tea.

After savouring a taste of kampua, it’s time to immerse yourself in the colourful sights that Sibu Central Market has to offer. As the largest market in Sarawak and the grandest indoor market in Malaysia, it boasts over a thousand stalls. Here, you’ll find a kaleidoscope of offerings: from fragrant jungle produce and fresh ingredients to seasoned fruits and condiments. The market is alive with the bustling sights and sounds of cooked foods, toys, and even live chickens and ducks wrapped in newspaper. It has everything a market should have—and a few things you might not expect.

Durian Isu in Sibu Central Market is sold at RM45 per kg (July 20, 2024).

Various types of grains can be found at Sibu Central Market.

Live chickens and ducks sold at Sibu Central Market.

Salted fish and other preserved seafood at Sibu Central Market.

The busy streets surrounding Sibu Central Market as just as interesting. As you meander through, you’ll encounter vibrant wall murals depicting life in this riverine town. Some locals say there are 13 murals, while others nine. Regardless, it is fun to hunt for these murals which are all situated in close proximity to each other.

Kompia and other types of baked goods found in Sibu.

While mural hunting, you’re likely to stumble upon the renowned Sheng Kee shop, where the air is filled with the tantalising aroma of freshly baked kompia. This local bread roll, similar to a bagel but with a delightfully harder texture, is a must-try. So beloved is it that similar establishments are popping up across Sarawak, from Kuching, to Bintulu and Miri, spreading this iconic bread of Sibu far and wide.

A compilation of Sibu murals at Market Road depicting local delicacies.

‘Wrapped Chicken and Duck’ mural at Sibu Central Market by Lau Sei Kwong and Lilian Tang Siu Hui.

‘Old Bus Mural’ at Blacksmith Road by Edmund Wong Yik Tze.

After a busy morning of mural hunting, hunger and fatigue are bound to set in. It’s the perfect time for a hearty lunch. At Yalin Cafe, you’ll find a variety of Chinese and Malay dishes, but the must-try specialties are the cuttlefish and kangkong (water spinach) rojak and the local cucumber rojak. These dishes, crafted by young Alex, the third-generation rojak-maker, feature a delightful mix of potato and vegetable fritters, cucumber, and turnip, promising to rejuvenate your spirit and tantalise your taste buds.

For drinks, give Yalin Cafe’s refreshing soursop juice and cendol (red bean and green jelly in coconut milk) a try. You will not regret it.

The best rojak in Sibu town at Yalin Cafe — cuttlefish and kangkong rojak, as well as local cucumber rojak.

After the meal, it is time for more exploration. Visit the Sibu Heritage Centre to better understand the history of Sibu before moving on to Lau King Howe Hospital Memorial Museum and Hoover Memorial Square to learn about the historical figures who contributed to Sibu’s development. En Ang Teng Tua Pek Kong Temple which is within walking distance is another must-visit destination.

Feeling peckish? Drop by the Sibu Night Market, where a world of flavours awaits. Amidst the chatter and vibrant lights, you’ll find an array of mouth-watering delicacies which promise to satisfy your hunger and warm your heart.

The market offers a wide range of delicious delicacies by vendors of all races and at very affordable prices. Take a stroll from one end to the other and you will find yourself leaving with bags filled with all types of goodies, from savoury barbecue meat, steamed buns with different fillings, to sweet peanut butter pancake, Malay kuih muih (sweets and desserts), and fresh sugar cane drinks, soya bean milk and many other delightful treats.

Alternatively, you may head to Lau King Howe Road to visit one of the many food eateries there for a wonderful evening of eating. After a good meal, a stroll along the Sibu Esplanade will help one to digest the food while at the same time, enjoy the breeze from the Rajang.

Sibu Night Market is a place many Sibuians grew up with.

Sibu Esplanade

Day 2 – Sungai Merah, where early Foochow immigrants first landed in Sarawak

We started the second day by hunting down what many would argue is the best Tian Mian Hu (also known as dian bian hu) in town, at a place called Treasure Land.  We were informed that the business is operated by the son of the legendary Kiu Chiong Loi, 84, who earlier this year had wrapped up his iconic Tian Mian Hu business at Black Smith Road in downtown Sibu.

When we arrived, we were pleasantly surprised to see senior Kiu working the wok at Treasure Land. The master himself whose Tian Mian Hu had attracted many documentary makers to film his cooking. His dish is not lost!

The owner, Kiu Kwong Chie, 50, the son of senior Kiu, told us that his father would be at his business to relieve him every now and then so that he could get on with preparing some of the ingredients needed to cook Tian Mian Hu.

The Tian Mian Hu at Treasure Land tasted as good as the one offered at Black Smith Road, if not better. It is recommended you give this a try if you happen to be in town.

Tian Mian Hu at Treasure Land, Sibu.

After breakfast, we drove straight to Wong Nai Siong Memorial Park at Sungai Merah to learn the history of how the Foochow first arrived in Sibu via Sungai Merah under the leadership of Pastor Wong Nai Siong.

Sungai Merah, the place where these Chinese immigrants first set foot in Sarawak is another must-visit destination in Sibu. Taking its name after the reddish Seduan River that runs through it, the first Chinese settlement in Sibu offers very reasonably priced food and drinks.

Wong Nai Siong Memorial Park

Wong Nai Siong Memorial Park at Sungai Merah, Sibu.

The day we visited, we were fortunate to meet Ah Shau who was the reason durian season arrived early at Sungai Merah by transporting Kanowit durians here to sell. It made our day as we were able to enjoy eating durians under the trees after a walk under the scorching sun by the Seduan River.

Durian lovers patronising Ah Shau’s durian stall beside Wong Nai Siong Memorial Park, Sungai Merah on July 19, 2024.

For lunch, visit Mak Borneo which offers a variety of Iban dishes such as pansuh ayam with terung asam (bamboo chicken with local sour eggplant), midin langau (local ferns cooked in Dayak rice wine), nasa ubi daun (tapioca leaf fried rice), and umai, a traditional Melanau dish made from raw fish and onions.

Clockwise, from front: Umai, nasi goreng daun ubi, midin langau, and pansuh ayam tua terung asam.

To work off the extra calories, head to Bukit Aup Jubilee Park for a leisurely afternoon climb to the top of the lookout tower.  From there, you can see the Igan Bridge that links Sibu to Sungai Bidut, a place known for its agricultural produce such as sweet pomelo and its shipyards.

Bukit Aup Jubilee Park, Sibu.

The fish at Bukit Aup Jubilee Park.

From the lookout tower at Bukit Aup Jubilee Park, one can see the Igan Bridge which links Sibu town to Sungai Bidut.

Bukit Aup also is home to a number of Iban longhouses which welcome visitors and travellers.  Those interested may call Robert’s Wooden House @016-889-2313.

Across from Bukit Aup Jubli Park is a restaurant called Zoo Bee Restaurant which serves Chinese dishes, which you may also try.

Day 3 — More kampua, kompia and Mee Sua

For breakfast, we went in search of a famous kampua stall nicknamed the Mercedes Kampua, as we were intrigued by the moniker.  We were informed that it was so nicknamed because the operator James Lee drives a Mercedes to work and that, he would just leave if there was no car parking lot available.

When met, Lee laughed off the hearsay but said that was true when he was holding a regular job and occasionally helped his mother who operates a stall at Pulau Babi (the old name of Khoo Peng Loong Road). But now, as he had quit his former job to focus on the kampua stall at Jaya Li Hua FoodCourt near Sibu Bus Terminal, he keeps regular hours for his kampua stall.

The nickname “Mercedes kampua” was given by Dudong assemblyman Dato Sri Tiong King Sing who is also Tourism, Culture and Heritage Minister, said Lee, who also showed us the pictures of Pujut assemblyman Adam Yii and Senator Abun Sui patronising his stall.

Clockwise from top left: Mercedes kampua, kompia soaked in braised five-spice broth, and beef tripe soup.

Lee is seen preparing “Mercedes kampua”.

After breakfast, we visited the Tings to witness the delicate art of making mee sua. For the past four decades, the Ting family has lovingly crafted traditional Foochow mee sua from their wooden house on Jalan Oya, Sibu.

Ting Cheng Sieng, 72, learnt how to make mee sua when he was 35-years-old and since then, this has been his livelihood.  Every day, Ting and his wife, Tang Swee Meek, 61, will produce mee sua from 50 kilogramme of wheat flour, provided the weather is good.  They will not produce more, as everything is handmade and no preservatives are added. The mee sua they produce can last for at least one year, on the condition that it is dried and kept properly.

A good sunny day is all that is needed for the mee sua to dry properly. If it is cloudy, then it may take up to three days of drying under the sun to achieve the necessary dryness.
Ting’s mee sua can be found in supermarkets.

They also fulfil personal orders from regulars, especially during Chinese New Year as both Foochows and Henghuas practice the tradition of eating mee sua, or longevity noodles, on the first day of Chinese New Year.

Ting preparing mee sua to be placed inside a proofing box.

Ting stretching strands of mee sua to make them thinner.

Tang drying mee sua under the sun.

Of course, it is only sensible that after a mee sua making lesson and a sightseeing trip at the temple, a mee sua lunch should be in order. And Oops it is! Oops Kopitiam is said to offer the best mee sua in town. The noodles swim gracefully in steaming soup which exudes a mixed aroma of ginger and Foochow red wine. To end the meal on a sweet note, kaya and butter toast should do the trick.

Mee sua (right, below) and kaya and butter toast are the two must-try dishes at Oops Kopitiam of Sibu.

After witnessing the intricate process behind making handmade mee sua and enjoying the meal, we headed over to the Jade Dragon Temple. Here, visitors can marvel at the stunning architecture and soak in the serene atmosphere of this beautiful landmark.

The Jade Dragon Temple’s majestic presence commands both reverence and admiration. As we crossed the threshold, a sense of tranquility enveloped us, contrasting to the dynamic energy of the noodle-making experience.

The temple’s entrance is a masterpiece of craftsmanship and a symphony of colours and shapes. Red, a symbol of good fortune and joy, dominates the palette, intertwined with shades of gold on the Chinese characters that contrasted with the scarlet.

The Jade Dragon Temple of Sibu.

Follow the visit to the temple with a stroll at Bukit Lima Forest Park, the green lung of Sibu town. The park which is Sarawak Forestry Corporation’s effort to preserve the peat swamp, has a wooden walkway that spans 5.7km. You can go there any time of the day.

The trees along the trail which provide shade are also home to 39 species of birds, including barbets, flowerpeckers, broadbills, sunbirds and bulbuls, which makes this park a haven for birdwatchers. If you are in luck, you may spot other animals such as the Malayan weasel, Sambar deer, Giant squirrel, the Plaintain squirrel, pangolins, slow lorises and long-tailed macaques.

Bukit Lima Nature Reserve, Sibu.

When night falls, set out for Taman Selera Muhibbah, a popular, bustling destination in Sibu where food choices are aplenty in the evening. Among the must-try options here are the fruit punch, mango shaved ice and satay.

The bustling Taman Selera Muhibbah in Sibu.

The must-try dishes at Taman Selera Muhibbah. Clockwise from top right: fruit punch, mango shaved ice and satay.

For those who still have stamina for more night activities, head over for a drink or two at Jalan Lau King Howe where there are many bars, cafes and other hang-outs for meet-ups.

Wrap up your Sibu adventure with a bang by visiting one of the wharves along Khoo Peng Loong Road. Here, you can hop on an express boat for a scenic cruise on the river, the perfect way to conclude your trip.

The operator offers two trips—a sunset trip and a dusk trip—with the former starting from 5.15pm to 6.15pm while the latter is from 6.30pm to 7.30pm. Sibu River Cruise offers a glimpse of the mighty Rajang and scenery along the banks. Sarawakians are charged RM15 per pax while other Malaysians and foreigners pay RM18 and RM25, respectively. — DayakDaily

Sibu River Cruise at Khoo Peng Loong Wharf.

Sibu En An Teng Tua Pek Kong Temple.