Behind every plate of Sung Moh Chicken Rice is a story of family, duty, determination

Jacqueline Lee

By Wilfred Pilo

Long before dawn breaks over Kuching, Jacqueline Lee and her family are already hard at work preparing one of the city’s enduring favourites—tender Hainanese-style steamed chicken served with fragrant rice and a signature dipping sauce that has kept generations of customers coming back for more.

For the 56-year-old, the dish is more than just a meal. It represents a family legacy spanning five decades, one she continues to uphold at Hainam Moi Cafe in Sunny Park, Jalan Dogan, in Kuching.

The family business was founded in 1976 by her late father at a rented coffee shop, Chop Sung Moh, along Green Road. After relocating to its current premises in 2002, Lee recently renamed the stall Sung Moh Chicken Rice in tribute to her father and the business’s 50th anniversary.

Like her father before her, Lee insists on maintaining the quality and flavours that built the family’s reputation. Each plate is served with generous portions of silky-skinned steamed chicken, fragrant stock-infused rice, and the family’s signature sauces and condiments.

The road to preserving that legacy, however, has not been without sacrifice.

After her father passed away in 1996 at the age of 70, Lee continued helping her mother run the business before eventually taking over full-time in 2002.

Her responsibilities extended beyond the coffee shop. When her mother suffered a stroke in 2015, Lee spent the next nine years caring for her while continuing to operate the family business. Her mother passed away in 2024 at the age of 82.

Lee’s Hainanese steamed chicken rice is served with fragrant, savoury rice and complemented by the family’s signature sauces and dipping condiments.

Today, she manages the cafe while her brother undertakes one of the most demanding tasks—preparing the steamed chickens.

“He wakes up at 2am every day to begin the meticulous process of preparing the chickens,” she said.

Despite the long hours and physically demanding routine, Lee remains committed to preserving the family recipe and maintaining the standards her customers have come to expect.

Yet she acknowledges that the future of the business remains uncertain, as Lee does not expect her two children to continue the family trade.

“My son is pursuing a career in civil engineering, while my daughter is studying biotechnology and will likely enter that field after graduation,” she said.

Still, she harbours no regrets.

For Lee, every plate of chicken rice served is more than a business transaction. It is a continuation of a story that began 50 years ago—a story of family, perseverance and an unwavering commitment to keeping her parents’ legacy alive.

“I will continue serving customers until I hang up my apron. Until then, I am happy with my daily routine of serving our family recipe to regular customers and newcomers alike,” she said.

Sung Moh Chicken Rice operates from Hainam Moi Cafe at Sunny Park, Jalan Dogan, Batu Kawah. The stall is open daily from 7am to 1.30pm and closes twice a month.

For enquiries, contact 019-856 2111. — DayakDaily

Hainam Moi Cafe is in Sunny Park, Jalan Dogan, Batu Kawah.