From Lido Theatre era to today, Ann Loke Hui Cafe keeps Hainanese legacy alive for six decades

John and his mother (left) at their drinking station in Ann Loke Hui Cafe.

By Wilfred Pilo

KUCHING, May 28: Just five days before Christmas in 1968, on Dec 20, Ann Loke Hui Cafe was officially registered in the bustling commercial stretch of Jalan Sekama, marking the beginning of what would become nearly six decades of Hainanese culinary tradition under the stewardship of the Hua family.

For close to 60 years, the cafe has been known for its comforting Hainanese-style fare, drawing generations of patrons with signature dishes such as succulent steamed chicken, char siew (barbecued) pork, three-layer pork with savoury rice, and an assortment of meat curry rice.

Today, the legacy continues under 56-year-old John Hua, who took over the business in 2001 from his father, Hua Kia Jin.

Hua senior ran the cafe for 33 years before passing away at the age of 64. Since then, John has carried on the family tradition together with his mother, 83-year-old Chai Lan Jin, who remains actively involved in the kitchen.

“My father learned to cook at an eatery in Carpenter Street before opening his own place. His friends always said he had a natural talent for cooking from a young age. The kitchen was where he felt most at home,” John told DayakDaily.

Meat curry rice and pork with savoury rice among Hainanese dishes serve at Ann Loke Hui Cafe.

He said the Hua family’s involvement in the culinary trade runs deep, though he is the only one continuing the café’s operations as his siblings pursue other careers.

“When I took over, I was optimistic about continuing his legacy. My mother was there to guide me, as she had always been the quiet force behind my father in the kitchen,” he added.

John recalled that the cafe experienced its busiest years during the heyday of the Lido Theatre, when cinema-goers would frequently dine there from its opening until the 1980s.

“Our cafe was part of the cinema experience back then. Many regulars still come in today reminiscing about those days and my father. We’ve continued preparing the same food in the kitchen ever since,” he said.

He also noted that some customers have claimed their char siew rivals even well-known versions in West Malaysia. “Taste is subjective, of course, but we appreciate the compliment,” he said with a smile.

Beyond its signature meats, the cafe is also known for its noodles, particularly kueh teow in tomato sauce, as well as its traditional Hainan coffee.

“For our coffee, we still use vintage kopitiam cups and saucers. Some older patrons still pour their coffee into the saucer to sip it the old-fashioned way. It’s a nostalgic sight and very much part of the Sarawak kopitiam culture,” John said.

Another enduring tradition is the use of old newspapers as takeaway wrappers.

“We don’t throw away our old newspapers. Since they’re already provided for reading in the cafe, and there were no modern wrappers back then, we continued the practice. It would otherwise go to waste,” he explained.

Old newspapers as takeaway wrappers and coffee serves in vintage cup and saucer remain a tradition at Ann Loke Hui Cafe.

Today, Ann Loke Hui Cafe has expanded its menu to include a variety of local vegetable dishes, fried rice, and Chinese-style meat dishes such as ginger chicken and pork, catering to evolving customer preferences while maintaining its heritage roots.

John hopes the cafe will continue into the next generation, with help already coming from his children and other family members. Memorabilia displayed around the cafe serves as a reminder of its long history and enduring identity.

“Even my mother still helps prepare coffee for customers. Apart from cooking, she is also a good barista at 83. We hope to continue serving our Hainanese dishes and drinks for as long as we can,” he said.

Ann Loke Hui Cafe is located along Jalan Sekama and operates daily from 10.30am to 2pm, except Sundays. For enquiries, contact 019-889 6101. — DayakDaily