Try Monica Tiong’s Mee Sua: A Foochow classic reimagined in Dayak ginger broth

Monica Tiong

By Wilfred Pilo

Growing up in Sibu, Monica Tiong spent her younger years observing seasoned cooks in the riverine town as they prepared classic Foochow dishes, especially longevity noodles, or Mee Sua.

Inspired by these culinary masters, she eventually began recreating the beloved thin wheat noodles, traditionally served with red wine, chicken or pork, ginger, and sesame oil.

Today, with over 30 years of experience, the 64-year-old Foochow cook has perfected her craft—and her stall has become well-known for its Mee Sua served in a distinctive Dayak ginger broth.

“It’s obvious, but I’ve always loved good Foochow food. In my younger days, I enjoyed watching hawkers prepare these dishes. Someday, I wanted to be just like them. After honing my skills through trial and error, and with my family as my first tasters, I finally gathered the courage to serve the dishes to the public.”

“Making your own ancestral dishes can be nerve-wracking, but after more than three decades, I know I’ve mastered the taste. People—including many regulars—continue to come to my stall.”

Mee Sua in Dayak ginger broth.

This confidence, she said, comes from knowing that the family’s traditional flavours stand strong and have earned a loyal following in Kuching.

Tiong has been serving Foochow cuisine at the same location for 25 years. Although her business paused during the pandemic, she later moved to a different stall within the same food court.

“But my regulars knew where to find me, and they still come today,” she said with a smile.

While she also serves Foochow staples such as the iconic Sibu Kampua, her Mee Sua remains the star of the menu.

“People come for my Mee Sua because I use local Dayak ginger in the broth as a substitute for Chinese red wine. The ginger gives a spicy, warm, citrusy flavour, and it’s perfect for customers who avoid alcohol,” she said.

This twist has become her signature, drawing praise from customers and helping her stall grow in popularity.

‘Kampua’ is also served at Tiong’s stall.

She added that Foochow longevity noodles are traditionally believed to have health benefits, especially for women recovering from childbirth, though they are enjoyed by all and often served for birthdays, hence the name ‘longevity noodles’.

Tiong is happy that her dishes have been well received over the years and is proud to share Foochow flavours with future generations. Her Kampua has also earned recognition for its authenticity.

“I’m glad one of my children is now in the culinary trade, making these dishes too. The legacy of crafting Foochow cuisine in our family continues,” she said.

Monica Tiong’s stall is located at Empire Food Court, Jalan Rock. It operates daily from 6am to 1.30pm. For enquiries, call 014-362 6565. — DayakDaily