72 hours in Bintulu: Where Tanjung Batu’s rocky splendours meet Similajau’s sunlit sands

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By Lian Cheng and Marlynda Meraw

BINTULU, once a humble fishing village, has transformed into an industrial hub, attracting multinational companies eager to harness the affordable energy that Sarawak offers.

Situated by the South China Sea and nestled along the banks of the Kemena River, Bintulu is a burgeoning town that promises an array of captivating spots for getaways and a diverse selection of flavourful local and international dishes.

Blessed with natural beauty, engaging activities, and a wide range of dining options, Bintulu attracts visitors with its enchanting charms and energy.

Days 1 – A prawn-y day

Today is a prawny day, with breakfast and lunch featuring delectable prawn noodles. Start your journey at Pasar Utama Bintulu, a bustling marketplace that teems with fresh ingredients, from jungle produce to sea catches.

Amidst the vendors, be sure to seek out the famed cincaluk and belacan. These products, rooted in Bintulu’s heritage as a fishing village, are still crafted using traditional methods, preserving their authentic flavour and historical significance.

After exploring the ground floor of Pasar Utama Bintulu, venture upstairs. The upper floor is a trove of local dishes, but the highlight is undeniably the prawn noodles at Chua Kee Seafood. Among the myriad places of mouthwatering prawn noodles in Bintulu, this stall stands out as a must-try.

With over 30 years of serving the residents of Bintulu, the Chua brothers have become an integral part of the town’s culinary scene. Their dishes, featuring succulent, generously sized prawns, are not only a delectable cuisine but also proof of Bintulu’s development. Dining at their stall is like flipping through the pages of a living history book.

Before you leave Pasar Utama Bintulu, take a left to discover another round-shaped building—Pasar Tamu. This market is dedicated to local and jungle produce; a visit here is a sensory adventure where you can find local handicrafts, exotic jungle goods, and a variety of fruits like bananas and green energy, all offered at very reasonable prices.

After the hearty breakfast, it’s time to visit Kampung Jepak, a Vaie settlement brimming with cultural richness. The Vaie have long been considered a subgroup of the Melanau, but Pandi Suhaili, president of the Anaq Vaie Bintulu Association, firmly asserts otherwise. To Pandi, the Vaie are distinct, with their own unique language and even a dedicated dictionary, making it inappropriate to generalise them as Melanau.

The origins of the Vaie are shrouded in intriguing theories. One posits that they originated from Bukit Sedaan, an area further inland beyond Bakun. Another theory suggests their roots lie in the Niah Caves before migrating to Jelalong and eventually settling at the mouth of the Kemena River. The most captivating theory, however, claims they are descendants of the Italian scholar and explorer Antonio Pigafetta.

Regardless of these varied origins, the Vaie were historically renowned as formidable warriors and skilled fishermen. Today, they continue their fishing traditions but have also flourished as entrepreneurs. Figures like Pandi and Saruji Ali, the owner of Hazzana Prawn Noodle, exemplify this entrepreneurial spirit.

Hazzana offers an array of prawn dishes that will tantalise your taste buds. From roasted prawns and fried prawns to prawns served with rice and noodles, the menu is a celebration of prawn delicacies that reflect the Vaie’s enduring connection to the sea and its innovative culinary flair.

From Kampung Jepak, let us head back to Bintulu downtown to visit Taman Tumbina. As the name suggests, Taman Tumbina is an integrated botanical and zoological garden in Bintulu. The word ‘Tumbina’ combines two Malay words—’tumbuhan’ (plants) and ‘binatang’ (animals).

Opened in 1991, this expansive garden covers 57 hectares of hilly and undulating terrain within Bintulu town. Overlooking the South China Sea, it is conveniently located just 5km from the town centre.

The scenic and well-maintained garden possesses an impressive collection of flora and fauna endemic to Borneo. It also functions as a mini-zoo, housing a variety of animals such as civets, crocodiles, cats, sun bears, along with birds like flamingos, hornbills, and owls. The trails here end in loops, making it a delightful spot for an afternoon exercise session. Currently, admission to this popular garden is free, making it a must-see attraction for anyone visiting Bintulu.

From Taman Tumbina, a short walk will take you to Tanjung Batu Beach, another must-visit destination in Bintulu.

You can visit this beach any time of the day, as the area provides ample shade from trees and nearby structures. Despite some minor man-made additions, the beach remains largely untouched, preserving its natural beauty. The scenery is so breathtaking and rejuvenating that it allows you to forget all your worldly troubles, letting you focus solely on the far yet near horizon, the rhythmic beating of the waves, the whispers of the seaside vegetation, and the comforting sea breeze.

The 1.8-kilometre-long beach is a destination worth visiting, not just for sightseeing but also for leisurely enjoyment. Much like Taman Tumbina, it offers a perfect setting for a slow stroll, allowing you to immerse yourself in the natural beauty that surrounds you.

For those seeking a bit more activity, there’s a 5.8-kilometre trail from Tanjung Batu Beach. Designed for running and walking, this trail takes a little over an hour to complete. As you traverse it, you can bask in the tranquillity and the scenic beauty that the path offers.

For dinner, make your way to the legendary Spring Garden, renowned for its deep-fried chicken feet—a dish that has earned a cult following.

This family-run establishment has delighted diners from near and far with their succulent chicken feet. While the dish might appear simple, its tender, well-marinated, and fall-off-the-bone texture makes it irresistibly delicious. It’s the kind of dish that will have you reaching for more, bite after mouthwatering bite. Despite its popularity and exceptional taste, the prices at Spring Garden remain remarkably reasonable.

After your meal, consider taking a leisurely night walk through the town to find the Council Negeri Memorial. This modest monument commemorates the first Sarawak Assembly held on September 8, 1867. Though it may seem unassuming, it represents a significant milestone in Sarawak’s history. The Sarawak government is even planning to build a museum in Bintulu to honour this historic event further.

Day 2 – Coastal bliss to sacred serenities

Upon arriving in Bintulu, we discovered a local specialty that piqued our curiosity: fried bitter gourd bihun. We tried a version topped with a dry sambal, which turned out to be a delightful surprise. Despite its inherently bitter nature, the bitter gourd did not taste bitter when combined with the bihun. Perhaps it was the small quantity used or simply the type of bitter gourd that was exceptionally mild. Regardless, this unique dish is definitely worth sampling if you’re feeling adventurous.

No visit to Bintulu is complete without exploring Similajau National Park. Before heading out, make sure to pack some food and drinks. We chose to bring along a local delicacy—the durian pizza from 900 Inn. If you’re a durian enthusiast, this creation is a must-try. The combination of durian and cheese may seem unusual, but the flavours meld surprisingly well. It’s as though the two ingredients were destined to complement each other from the start, creating a harmonious and intriguing palate experience.

Gazetted in 1978, Similajau National Park, located about 30 km from Bintulu, is a treasure trove of biodiversity. It is home to 185 species of birds and 24 species of mammals, including wild boars and macaques. The park features stunning, long stretches of golden beaches that seem to go on forever. In a delightful turn of events, turtle eggs were discovered on the beaches in 2021 after a 20-year absence.

But Similajau National Park offers more than just its turtle sightings and picturesque beaches. The park offers visitors an array of trails for various interests and fitness levels. These include the 450-metre plank walk, the 600-metre educational trail, a 1.7-kilometre circular trail, a 1.3-kilometre viewpoint trail, and the 1.35-kilometre Batu Anchau trail. For those looking to explore further, there are the 6.5-kilometre Turtle Beach I trail, the 7.6-kilometre Turtle Beach II trail, and the 10-kilometre Golden Beach trail.

For a more relaxed visit, consider hiring a boat to drop you off at Golden Beach and then trekking back to the park headquarters, or vice versa. This way, you can enjoy the park’s natural beauty at a leisurely pace.

Kuan Ying Tong Temple, situated about 2km from Bintulu town, serves not only as a place of worship for devotees but also as a serene spot for visitors and tourists. The temple features a beautifully designed and well-maintained rock garden courtyard adorned with zodiac animals and a majestic dragon. This tranquil setting provides a perfect respite from a busy day of sightseeing in Bintulu, offering a peaceful stroll and a moment of relaxation.

In the heart of downtown Bintulu stands yet another temple by the name Tua Pek Kong Temple, the oldest temple in the area, rich with history and stories. Legend has it that during the Second World War, when Bintulu faced bombing and fire, this temple survived unscathed. In 1975, as a fire ravaged half of Bintulu, the blaze miraculously halted at the temple’s perimeter. Believing that the deity had intervened, a grand procession was held the following year in honour of Tua Pek Kong, the local deity. Today, this revered temple continues to hold a special place in the hearts of Bintulu’s Buddhists and hosts a grand procession every two years.

After a day of exploration, head to Seribu Bintang Restaurant for a hearty meal. This eatery is renowned for its ‘linut’, a traditional dish once a staple to the Melanau and other minority groups such as the Penan. Linut, made from sago starch mixed with hot water to create a porridge-like consistency, is typically enjoyed with fresh fish, preserved salted fish, vegetables, fried anchovies, or sambal (shrimp paste). At Seribu Bintang, the linut comes with a spicy twist, but for those who prefer milder flavours, there is also an all-you-can-eat buffet available for just RM10 per person.

For an easy and enjoyable shopping experience, visit the Bintulu Pasar Malay. This well-organised market offers a variety of items, including phone cases, toys, and clothing, alongside an array of food options—from fresh produce to cooked dishes representing different cuisines. Open nightly, it provides a vibrant and diverse shopping experience any day of the week.

Day 3 – Caves, cuisines, and coastal walks

With its green-themed décor, Seaview Kopitiam exudes a tranquil and inviting atmosphere. This Hong Kong-style café is renowned for its robust coffee and rich milk tea, but it’s its fried noodle dishes that truly draw patrons from near and far. The prawn-fried noodle dish, though on the pricier side, is a highlight. Alternatively, you can opt for their more reasonably priced fried noodle options, which feature pork instead of prawns.

But the culinary delights don’t end there. Another must-try at Seaview Kopitiam is their butter-kaya toast. Imagine thick slices of butter, about two to three millimetres, melting luxuriously on your tongue—it’s an irresistible treat that perfectly complements your meal.

Today, you’re in for an exciting adventure as you head to Niah National Park. Although Niah is often associated with Miri, it’s conveniently accessible from Bintulu with just a 1.5-hour drive. So, if you’re in Bintulu, this is an excellent opportunity to explore the Niah Caves and immerse yourself in its natural wonders.

The journey to Niah National Park is a scenic one, offering glimpses of the Sarawak landscape as you make your way through the serene countryside. Once you arrive, you’ll find yourself captivated by the park’s renowned caves, which are among the most significant archaeological sites in Southeast Asia. The caves are famous not only for their historical importance but also for their impressive rock formations and rich biodiversity.

For lunch, you have two appealing options. You can either return to Bintulu for a meal, where a variety of dining establishments offer everything from local delicacies to international fare. Alternatively, you might choose to dine at the Niah Park cafeteria, which provides convenient and satisfying meals. This option allows you to enjoy a meal while soaking in the natural beauty surrounding you, making it a practical choice if you wish to maximise your time exploring the park.

Considering the tiring return trip, you can rest and head for dinner at ApeQ’s Grill with the eatery offering a delightful blend of Iban and Western fusion cuisine, making it a unique dining destination in Bintulu. Specialising in roasted pork and innards, the restaurant also features an array of frog dishes, including savoury frog, sweet-sour frog, and sambal frog. Among these, the roasted pork is particularly popular. It’s served in a wok with charcoal underneath, separated by a thin metal grill, ensuring that each serving remains hot and delicious throughout your meal.

After enjoying your meal at ApeQ’s Grill, consider taking a leisurely stroll along the Bintulu Promenade. Once the longest waterfront in Sarawak, the promenade’s length was reduced after a section was closed off to protect private properties. Despite this, it remains a pleasant place for a stroll along the Kemena River under the stars, offering a tranquil escape from the day’s activities.

For a different experience, revisit Bintulu Tanjung Batu Beach to enjoy the night breeze. The beach transforms under the moonlight, offering a serene contrast to its daytime appearance. The quiet evening atmosphere, combined with the gentle sounds of the waves, creates a uniquely calming and welcoming environment, perfect for winding down after a day of exploration. — DayakDaily

Time	Activities
Day 1
Breakfast	Pasar Utama prawn noodle
Destination	Pasar Utama Bintulu, Kampung Jepak
Lunch	Kampung Jepak prawn noodle
Destinations	Taman Tumbina, Tanjung Batu Beach
Dinner	Spring Garden
Destinations	Council Negeri Monument
Day 2
Breakfast	New Champion Café
Lunch	Durian Pizza from 900 Inn (Takeaway for Similajau Park trip)
Destinations	Similajau National Park
Destinations	Kuan Ying Tong Temple, Tua Pek Kong Temple
Dinner	Seribu Bintang Restaurant
Destinations	Bintulu Night Market
Day 3
Breakfast	Seaview Café (Foochow noodle)
Destination	Niah National Park
Late Lunch	Lunch at cafe at Niah Park
Dinner	ApeQ’s Grill
Destinations	Bintulu Promenade, Tanjung Batu Beach