72 Hours in Miri: Beachside medley of natural wonders, seahorse dreams, and hornbills

72 Hours in Miri.

By Marlynda Meraw

MIRI has blossomed from a humble settlement into an animated city, offering a sublime blend of history, adventure, and, of course, unique cuisine. This city is enchanting with its marvellous beaches, the majestic Mulu National Park—which is also a UNESCO heritage site—along with the mystical Niah Caves and the beautiful Piasau Nature Reserve.

What would you do if you had 72 hours in Miri? A dynamic gem situated in the northern region of Sarawak, Miri is renowned for its pristine beaches and its legacy as the birthplace of Malaysia’s petroleum industry.

With so much to explore, 72 hours may seem fleeting, yet let’s embark on a journey to savour the essence of Miri in this brief but unforgettable sojourn.

Day 1 – Savouring the journey of taste and nature

No trip to Miri, or rather, any part of Sarawak, would be complete without indulging in its flavoursome fares. Start your day with a generous breakfast of your choice at Chang Cheng Cafe.

The cafe offers a diverse menu, offering everything from hearty rice dishes to delicate noodles and breakfasts that range from light bites to substantial meals—there’s something to satisfy every palate. According to one of our friendly waiters, every dish is worth sampling, but if we had to choose, the roasted pork rice is an absolute must-try.

A lovely meal at Chang Cheng Cafe.

Chang Cheng Cafe from the outside.

With a satisfied appetite, you are now ready to embark on an adventure through the treasures that Miri has to offer. Begin your journey by delving into the city’s fascinating heritage with a visit to the Grand Old Lady, Miri’s first oil well.

The Petroleum Museum nearby offers an intriguing glimpse into Miri’s industrial past, shedding light on how the discovery of oil sparked the city’s remarkable evolution.

After your enlightening visit, make your way to Tamu Muhibbah, a mere 800 metres from the Petroleum Museum. Here, you can immerse yourself in the colourful local market, brimming with fresh produce and regional delights. If fortune smiles upon you, as it did upon us, you might even stumble upon an array of seasonal fruits being sold at delightfully low prices.

During our stop at Tamu Muhibbah, we were incredibly fortunate to encounter dabai (Borneo olives) and durian, both seasonal fruits that yield their bounty towards the end of the year. The dabai fruit, a true Sarawakian delicacy, can command up to RM100 per kilo when out of season, yet here, we were lucky to find it for a mere RM30 per kilo, making our discovery all the more delightful.

Miri’s first oil well at The Grand Old Lady.

Panoramic view from The Grand Old Lady.

Variety of fruits such as dabai (below, in red plastic), regular durian (middle, right), durian isu (middle, left), jackfruit (top, left), and mangosteens found at Tamu Muhibbah. Photo taken on July 24, 2024.

More dabai of different grades sold by another vendor at Tamu Muhibbah.

Less than two kilometres away lies the enchanting Miri Handicraft Centre, which is filled with the products of local artistry. This charming hub is where tradition meets modernity, with handmade crafts lovingly created by the native artisans of Sarawak, such as the Orang Ulu and Dayaks.

Along the array of meticulously crafted items, you can find classically woven basket bags and more modernly designed laptop bags and petite pouches—products that wonderfully blend culture and tradition with contemporary flair.

This Handicraft Centre is more than just a market; it is also a perfect demonstration of the enduring spirit of the local community and their ability to adapt and innovate, making it a must-visit for anyone seeking a unique and meaningful keepsake.

Miri Handicraft Centre.

Handwoven bags that can be found in one of the stores at Miri Handicraft Centre.

Modern round satchel bag in one of the stores at Miri Handicraft Centre.

Craving a bite? Head over to Jalan Marina, where a delightful array of cafes awaits, each inviting you to dine at your leisure. Among the notable spots are Litt Cafe and Chapter 1 Cafe, both offering scrumptious cakes to satisfy your sweet tooth alongside aromatic coffee and teas for caffeine enthusiasts. Ready your cameras, as these delectable desserts are undeniably Insta-worthy!

After, head to Coco Cabana, where you can take a leisurely stroll along the boardwalk, breathing in the sea breeze and soaking in the stunning views of the South China Sea. Though currently undergoing renovation, the allure of this waterfront remains undiminished, offering a serene escape with its scenic beach visits and tranquil ambience.

If a beach walk at Coco Cabana isn’t your current preference, consider a visit to Taman Awam Miri, where you can promenade through a forested environment right in the city. Settled amid the viridiscent environment, this park offers winding paths, scenic bridges, and tranquil spots perfect for soaking in nature’s beauty.

Whether you’re captivated by the vibrant flora or simply seeking a peaceful retreat, Taman Awam Miri provides a refreshing contrast to the coastal allure of Coco Cabana.

Waffles with ice-cream and a glass of caramel milk at Litt Cafe, Jalan Marina.

Coco Cabana in the distance.

The view on the way to Coco Cabana.

Taman Awam Miri.

For a taste of Miri’s charm, look no further than Medan Selera Tanjung Lubang. Here, you can indulge in a feast that’s as visually stunning as it is delicious, with a menu that spans local delicacies and Western favourites.

Dine indoors for a more sheltered experience, or opt for the spacious outdoor area, where each meal can be enjoyed with a breathtaking sunset over the beach. Trust us, the scene is nothing short of spectacular.

After a savouring meal, casually amble along Tanjung Lubang Beach, a perfect way to walk off the fullness while basking in the evening breeze. Feel the soft sand beneath your toes, let the gentle waves wash over your feet, and immerse yourself in the soothing sound of crashing waves. It’s a tranquil end to a delightful evening, blending relaxation with the natural beauty of Miri’s coastline.

Meal at De Tanjung restaurant located at Tanjung Lubang.

One of the restaurants located at Tanjung Lubang.

Enjoying the sunset view along the shores of Tanjung Lubang while having dinner.

Day 2 – The Lovebirds of Piasau

Start your day with a scrumptious breakfast at The Kopitiam, a charming haven where your morning meal can be as light or hearty as you wish. Enjoy the simple pleasure of toasted bread with a variety of options to choose from, or embrace a more substantial start with a serving of fragrant nasi lemak. For those who crave a different morning flavour, the eatery also serves an array of noodles, ensuring a perfect beginning to your day.

Set out for Tusan Beach, an enchanting seascape located about 39 kilometres from Miri City, with a drive that takes roughly 45 minutes. Tusan Beach presents a serene escape along the Miri coastline, with shores stretching out with a welcoming embrace. There, you can observe the unique natural wonders sculpted by the whims of the elements while soaking in an ocean view as calming as a whispered lullaby.

Lovely breakfast of steamed bread, fried noodles, and French toast at The Kopitiam along Jalan Marina.

Mini drinking horse statue at Tusan beach.

Return to the city and satisfy your hunger at the Unusual Hainanese Chicken Rice. Though its name may spark curiosity, suggesting a touch of peculiarity, the experience is anything but odd. It was, in fact, the intriguing name that drew us in, compelling us to explore this cafe.

Here, you can relish a sumptuous plate of roasted chicken paired with fragrant char siu and a soothing bowl of herbal chicken soup that wraps around you like a warm, comforting hug, leaving both your palate and soul fulfilled.

Today’s journey is a celebration of nature, leading you to the serene Miri City Fan Recreation Park, situated along Jalan Kipas, aptly named ‘Fan Road’. After a satisfying lunch, take a relaxing walk through this verdant city oasis. The park’s pathway invites you to unwind amidst the greenery and lovely surroundings.

Within the park, you can also discover the public library, a sanctuary of knowledge and calm, where you can lose yourself in the pages of a good book, further enriching your afternoon.

A delicious lunch of chicken rice paired with savoury char siu and a warm, comforting bowl of herbal chicken soup at Unusual Hainanese Chicken Rice.

Beautiful palm trees along the Miri City Fan Recreation Park.

The iconic pair of seahorses that can be found all around Miri.

Reading statue outside the public library at Miri City Fan Recreation Park.

Continuing your trip, venture to the outskirts of the city where the Piasau Nature Reserve awaits, a sanctuary teeming with natural beauty and the promise of rare encounters. Here, you can witness the majestic hornbills in their habitat.

The park ranger suggests visiting at 8am and late afternoon, around four to five, for the best chance to spot these magnificent birds. Within the reserve, keep an eye out for the resident Oriental-pied hornbill pair, affectionately named Jimmy and Juliet, who are often seen during these optimal hours. Their presence adds a touch of enchantment to the reserve, making your visit truly memorable.

After a day brimming with nature adventures, your hunger surely beckons. Make your way to Hock Kopitiam, situated along Jalan Marina. As the sun sets, you can choose from a delightful choice of dishes—perhaps a comforting bowl of laksa for dinner or savour the flavours of buttermilk chicken, just as we did. Hock Kopitiam’s extensive menu offers something for every palate, all at an affordable price, making it the perfect end to your day’s exploration.

As a side note, we recommend staying at the Amigo Hotel within proximity to the Marina area. This strategic location places you near a variety of eateries and the bench, offering the perfect setting to relax and unwind. The hotel’s proximity to local attractions makes it an ideal haven for both rest and exploration, ensuring your stay is as delightful as your day’s adventures.

After your meal at Hock Kopitiam, take a leisurely promenade towards the Miri City Council Building for a relaxing post-dinner walk. This new landmark not only offers a serene environment but also a special treat; after 5pm, visitors are welcomed to ascend to the rooftop, where a breathtaking sunset view awaits.

Buttermilk chicken and Hock’s Kopitiam speciality, cheese laksa.

Piasau Nature Reserve.

Beautiful yellow flower found at the Piasaw Nature Reserve.

Bird-watching at Piasau Nature Reserve.

A lone bird found perching at the end of a branch at Piasau Nature Reserve.

As the sunset sky paints itself in hues of orange and pink, you can soak in the tranquil beauty of the moment. Surrounding the building is a charming park, where pathways invite you to wander along the shores to enjoy the scenic beauty nature generously offers.

Beach view from the Miri City Council rooftop.

Panoramic view of the beach by the Miri City Council.

Breathtaking sunset at Miri City Council.

Day 3 – Miri’s morsels of noodles, nature, and nightlights

Kick off your third morning with a delightful breakfast at Grandpa’s Homemade Noodles. This eatery offers a heartwarming start to your day with its signature dish: a bowl of noodles that feels like a comforting hug. The noodles are perfectly cooked and paired with beautifully tender slices of pork. Each bite is a delightful medley of flavours. The noodles bring forth the essence of homemade goodness to the table.

Just a mere 58-minute drive away, you can immerse yourself in the tranquil beauty of Sibuti Wildlife Sanctuary. This serene retreat offers an enchanting experience of nature, where you can stroll through green forests and observe an array of wildlife. It is a sanctuary of calm, providing a perfect escape for visitors away from the hustle and bustle of city life.

Alternatively, for those seeking a more adventurous outing, venture an hour and a half to the Miri-Sibuti Coral Reefs National Park. Here, the thrill of sea adventure awaits, promising a day of diving and underwater exploration. This park is renowned for its vibrant coral reefs, teeming with colourful marine life.

As you dive beneath the waves, you’ll be greeted by schools of fish, intricate coral formations, and the occasional glimpse of majestic sea turtles. The experience is akin to entering another world, where the beauty of the ocean’s depths leaves you in awe. Whether you’re a seasoned diver or a novice, the Miri-Sibuti Coral Reefs National Park offers an unforgettable journey in the heart of the sea.

Homemade goodness at Grandpa Homemade Noodles along Jalan Marina, Miri.

Discover the wonders of underwater when diving at Miri-Sibuti Coral Reefs National Park. Photo credit: Miri Divers

Come across the turtle during your diving at Miri-Sibuti Coral Reefs National Park. Photo credit: Miri Divers

Encountering a jellyfish at Miri-Sibuti Coral Reefs National Park. Photo source: Miri Divers

For lunch, make your way to the Nest Grill and Lounge, a place that specialises in Western fusion dishes. This restaurant is not just about the food; it’s an experience. The chic interior, stylish decor, and thoughtfully designed spaces invite you to linger and soak in the sophisticated ambience. Every corner of the Nest is photo-worthy, perfect for capturing memories of your experience.

After your delightful lunch, set out on a journey to the Lian Hua San San Ching Temple. This sacred site, with its ornate architecture, invites you to step into a realm of peace and reflection. The temple, adorned with intricate carvings and vibrant colours, stands as proof of both spiritual devotion and artistic craftsmanship.

Once you’ve soaked in the spiritual serenity, head over to the Miri Waterfront. This lovely promenade, with its panoramic view of the river, offers a striking contrast to the stillness of the temple. Be sure to capture a photo of the coupled seahorse statue, an iconic landmark that can be found throughout Miri that symbolises the spirit of the place.

These elegant seahorses, intertwined in a graceful embrace, represent the city’s connection to the sea and its maritime seahorse. This striking statue, set against the backdrop of the waterfront, makes for a perfect memento of your visit, encapsulating the charm and character of Miri in a single, beautifully crafted image.

Delicious meal at The Nest, located within Miri Times Square.

The chic interior of The Nest.

Lian Hua San San Ching Temple.

Miri Waterfront nestled within the city area.

The iconic seahorse located by the Miri Waterfront.

As the evening approaches, make your way to Ming Cafe Miri Borneo, a delightful fusion of cafe, bar, and bistro all under one roof. The owner, known for her warm and welcoming nature, ensures that every guest feels right at home. Located prominently on a corner street, the cafe stands out with its vibrant facade, making it a beacon for locals and tourists seeking a memorable dining experience.

With the final evening of your 72-hour adventure in Miri coming to a close, a tranquil walk along Miri Times Square offers a perfect way to cap off your day. This area comes alive at night, illuminated by beautiful and colourful lanterns that cast a warm, enchanting glow. A small park nestled within the shop provides a serene spot to pause and soak in the environment.

If you find yourself still hungry or simply craving a treat, Miri Times Square offers a variety of eateries to satisfy any palate. Whether you choose to indulge in yet another hearty meal or enjoy a refreshing cup of milk tea, the options are plentiful and inviting. This charming setting, with its delightful mix of sights and flavours, ensures that your final evening in Miri is as memorable as the adventures that came before it.

Ming Cafe Miri Borneo, located at the corner lot nearby Mercure Hotel.

Lively ambience with crowds patronising the Ming Cafe Miri Borneo. Photo source: Ming Cafe Miri Borneo FB.

Wireless Walk Zone A, located across Ming Cafe Miri Borneo.

Miri Times Square.

Archway into Miri Times Square.

The night ambience of the Miri Times Square makes for a lovely evening stroll.

For a change, if you have a penchant for nature and adventure, consider extending your journey to the Mulu National Park, a UNESCO heritage site. This awe-inspiring destination promises two days of exploration within ancient rainforests and limestone karst formations. Mulu’s pristine beauty and serene ambience offer a perfect conclusion to your Miri adventure, leaving you with memories of untouched nature and remarkable landscapes. — DayakDaily