Ah Ken’s Cantonese porridge: A taste of tradition in Kuching

Ah Ken has been making Cantonese porridge for almost 20 years now.

By Wilfred Pilo

KUCHING, July 23: Inspired by watching food operators make his favorite savory Cantonese porridge while working in Johor and Singapore, 50-year-old Ah Ken decided to make his own in his spare time.

Ah Ken shared with DayakDaily that during those days, he made porridge to save money.

In the end, he realised his porridge was as good as those he ate at cafes in Johor and Singapore.

He opined that working abroad helped enrich his knowledge and experiences and sparked the idea of how he could make a reliable profession when needed.

“Since working in factories and food outlets in Johor and Singapore gave me a mediocre livelihood and little savings, and age is catching up, I decided I needed to do something better.

“One day, eating in a cafe sparked the idea of making culinary a profession. When I returned to Kuching, I got into the food business. In the end, Cantonese porridge generated a stable income for me for almost 20 years,” he revealed.

A bowl of Ah Ken’s Cantonese porridge with a generous serving of braised minced pork.

Ah Ken said he initially scouted for a place to set up a stall and found that a porridge seller at his present business location had retired.

“He was a well-known porridge seller, and another vendor before him had a reputation too for their porridges. I was young. I did not think much as I wanted to do something that I was good at. So, I am now the third vendor,” he further disclosed.

Ah Ken revealed that he is not married as he focuses on his porridge business, with his day beginning at 2.30am daily.

“It takes 3 hours to make my porridge, as the rice texture almost disintegrates. This smooth and silky texture is the characteristic difference between Cantonese porridges and others.

“I am at my stall at 6.30am and ready to serve my customers. Most of them have been regulars for the last 20 years. I have to be consistent over the years. Those are the skills I need to keep and enhance.”

When he started 20 years ago, Ah Ken disclosed he used a charcoal stove to heat his porridge in a ceramic bowl before serving.

Such preparation gives an extra aroma and makes the dish more authentic.

“With the prices of charcoal increasing, like my ingredients, I cannot serve it in such a way anymore, and I have to be quick as I have more customers. I had to let that cooking style go to save cost and time.

“With minimum wages going up, I cannot afford workers, and with the high cost of goods and services, it is an expensive business to run. I am afraid many vendors face such issues. Ultimately, customers will have to bear the costs if they want good food,” he lamented.

“I make about two 10-liter pots daily, usually running out by 9.30am. A bowl is RM8, and with eggs, it’s RM8.50. A small bowl is RM4. Previously, every bowl was half the price compared to now.”

Ah Ken’s stall is located at Ming Hong Kee Cafe, Padungan.

Ah Ken is glad that his stint living in Johor and Singapore gave him the idea that provided him this livelihood now.

“I would love to make my Cantonese porridge more authentic using the charcoal stove, but not for now. As a self-taught porridge maker and cook, I am glad customers love my smooth and silky porridge.”

Ah Ken’s Cantonese porridge stall is located at Ming Hong Kee Cafe Padungan. He operates daily from 6.30am to 10am. — DayakDaily