Ah Lu’s tasty Hakka-style fried manicai noodles keeps customers returning to Tapah Cafe

Ah Lu's popular Hakka-style fried manicai noodles at Tapah Cafe.

By Wilfred Pilo

KUCHING, Jan 3: For the past 20 years, the proprietor of Tapah Cafe, 56-year-old Bong Chiew Miaw or Ah Lu as he is known to most of his customers, starts his workday at 6am daily, preparing a variety of noodle dishes at his cooking station almost nonstop for his customers until 1pm.

He always looks forward to serving dishes to customers, especially his well-known savoury Hakka dish—fried manicai noodles.

Ah Lu revealed that he has been cooking for more than 30 years and learned to make noodle dishes, including fried manicai noodles from family members and a noodles connoisseur he worked for.

“After learning from all these noodle experts, I was confident in starting my stall at one cafe in Tapah Village before I had my own cafe which I have operated until now.

“I probably inherited these cooking skills from my father as he cooked noodle dishes too,” he told DayakDaily.

Tapah Cafe proprietor Bong Chiew Miaw or Ah Lu, poses for a photo.

Ah Lu said he initially never knew that his fried manicai noodles had gained a large following as he felt that all the other noodle dishes he prepared were just as good.

“There is no secret in the fried manicai noodles I cook as the main ingredient is the manicai (sweet or star gooseberry leaf) fried together with thin flour noodles, garlic oil to flavour, and topped up with fried shrimp.

“It is a Hakka dish, and this Chinese community loves this style of cooking noodles as it probably suits their palate. The older folks love it as it is a hefty meal.

“These days, the dish is liked by many customers from all walks of life. It is easy to prepare if you have the ingredients. But the ingredients must all be fresh especially the manicai,” he shared.

Ah Lu further disclosed that he uses a specific type of noodles in his fried manicai noodles dish—the ‘apek (old man)’ brand, which is more salty—rather than rice vermicelli which is commonly used to make manicai noodle dishes.

“I like the flavour of these thin noodles and its texture too,” he opined.

Ah Lu said he uses ten packs a day or more during weekends or holiday periods, as that is when he gets the most customers.

He said motorists passing by Tapah Village would stop by his cafe for meals, and most would order the fried manicai noodles.

“These motorists are probably my regulars and those who know that such noodles is being served at my cafe.”

Tapah Cafe is located at No. 27, Tapah Village along the Kuching-Serian Road.

Ah Lu revealed that some of his customers even asked him to pack his noodle dishes including his fried manicai noodles, to be brought back to Singapore.

“I am glad customers bring my dishes elsewhere to share how we prepare these dishes here.”

Ah Lu, who has three daughters, said only his second daughter is likely to follow his footsteps and most likely will be the next generation to take over his cooking business from him.

“I hope my second daughter can make it her profession and continue my legacy,” he said.

Tapah Cafe, a 30-minute drive from Kuching City, is located at No. 27, Tapah Village along the Kuching-Serian Road. It operates daily from 6am to 1pm except on Monday. For inquiries, call 012-827 2228.