‘Gastronomy and I: My Favourite Dish’ Bronze Winner (Youth) — Christian Richardson Donald

4 months ago 50

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Kauk Ikien

It was a month before Gawai Dayak, and the beautiful Saturday sun had just begun to cast its golden hues over the lush hills of Kampung Stass.

The distinctive scent of the damp earth and dewy foliage welcomed me, instantly transporting me back to my childhood.

On this day, I was about to immerse myself in a Bidayuh tradition that has been passed down through generations: making Kauk Ikien.

As I stepped into the kitchen, Sumuk (‘grandmother’ in Bidayuh) greeted me with a twinkle in her eyes; “Ready to make Kauk Ikien?”.

Kauk Ikien, or fermented fish, is a revered dish in Bidayuh culture, known for its unique blend of flavours and its laborious preparation process.

We headed to the nearby river, Aang Ngironas to catch our main ingredient. It took us a while to catch enough fish, but we managed.

“Put them in the basket,” Sumuk instructed and after securing the vertebrates, we returned home to get started on the “fishy” task at hand.

Back in the kitchen, we began cleaning and gutting the fish. “Every cut must be precise,” Sumuk advised.

Setting the fish aside, she scooped up a few cups of rice and I proceeded to crush them in a mortar with a pestle, creating tiboduk.

We fried this in a heated wok until it turned golden-brown, which we then put into a basin along with a couple tablespoons of salt.

This mixture was then massaged onto the fish and carefully sealed into a jar, before being left to ferment in a cool, dark cupboard for a month.

During its time of fermentation, the fish will develop a rich complex flavour, becoming a cherished staple for the celebrations ahead.

The jar not only contained the fish, but a piece of tradition passed down through our ancestral line, just like the flow of the Aang Ngironas.

We will enjoy the bounty of this river even when the waters turn harsh and unforgiving.

On the day of Gawai, faint sounds of the gonang ogou’ng filled the air as I arrived at Sumuk’s house.

“Ah, you’re just in time, let’s unveil our treasure!” Sumuk exclaimed.

After weeks of patience, we were finally able to reveal the fruits of our labour which carried promised flavours.

The once humble fish turned out adorned in a glistening coat of tiboduk and salt.

As Sumuk and I served the dish, she reminded us of the significance of Kauk Ikien to our culture.

“We offer this during Pisien,” she said, “Pisien” being a ceremony during Gawai where we prepare offerings to appease the spirits and to invite a more bountiful harvest in the season to follow.

And with every bite, the intricate flavour of Kauk Ikien unfolds; a testament to the timeless art of fermentation that carries a sense of gratitude for the traditions we inherit from our forebears, the people of a great past.

“Remember all that I teach, so our ways shall never become extinct.” — Sumuk. — DayakDaily

Christian Richardson Donald from Kuching is the Bronze Winner (Youth Category) in the ‘Gastronomy and I: My Favourite Dish’ writing competition organised by DayakDaily and supported by the Sarawak Ministry of Tourism, Creative Industry and Performing Arts, and Imperial Hotel Kuching.