Glimmer of Tradition

Kazuliah Mohamed Towfek, fondly known as Kak Kajuk, a traditional Malay tukang hias, preserves a centuries-old art of bridal preparation. Despite modernisation, her expertise and family heirloom attire, the gajah oleng, keep heritage alive, though the practice is fading.

Preserving a centuries-old tradition: The art of the Malay ‘tukang hias’

The beauty of a heritage that is deeply rooted in its traditional identity, but slowly dissipating, is a story to be told. For Kazuliah Mohamed Towfek, her journey as a tukang hias within the Malay community of Sarawak represents a long-standing trade that is about to go extinct.

Fondly known as Kak Kajuk, her job as a tukang hias is more than that of a modern-day makeup artist. Just as the sounds of kompang are heard at any Malay wedding, her tasks often involve more than ensuring the bride is confident and beautiful.

A routine of bathing the bride with a flower-infused bath, ensuring she drinks her concoction of herbs to glow on the big day, getting the bride ready by putting on makeup and dressing her up; Kak Kajuk’s tasks also include accompanying the bride and ensuring she and the groom adhere to all the wedding rituals.

Though these days, weddings have become less of a hassle with the changes brought by modern generations, Kak Kajuk’s services remain essential within the more heritage-centric community of Sarawak. Embracing the traditional elements of a Malay wedding, Kak Kajuk, despite being in her 80s, keeps going.

“Despite my age, I still work as a tukang hias because people need my services to maintain the traditional aspects of their weddings. I also continue because it is my interest, it is my hobby!”

The bride, accessorised in Kak Kajuk’s gajah oleng, which is over 100 years old and a family heirloom from her grandmother.

Kak Kajuk holds the food cover, unearthing the nasi temuan, a ceremony during which the bride and groom enjoy their first meal after marriage.

Over 100 years of service

Learning to hias was a skill she had acquired from her mother, Ejah Haji Rais, who had learned it from her own mother — Kak Kajuk’s grandmother. Back in the day, a tukang hias was highly sought after in the community, and on some days, Kak Kajuk recalls her mother having to prepare brides from different villages simultaneously.

“When I was younger, I would follow my mother to her job. She was a popular tukang hias, and during those times, I learned the trade myself. Although times have changed, my routine remains similar to that of my mother’s.”

Prior to working as a tukang hias full-time, Kak Kajuk furthered her studies in dentistry after finishing her secondary education. After 1965, she took over her mother’s job when Ejah expressed her wish to retire at the age of 65.

“She wanted me to continue after her retirement. She wanted me to take over her tasks. And so I did, under her tutelage. I also learned how to do facials and makeup at an evening class I attended,” said the octogenarian.

During her time as a tukang hias in the ’60s, she said that the products she used were not very different from today’s. Using foundation, blusher, eye shadow, and others, Kak Kajuk would obtain her makeup products locally.

She also visited Kuala Lumpur to get different products and learn how to use each one to further beautify a bride on her wedding day.

“There I learned to apply what I got, but it also depended on my touch with these products.”

Wedding traditions — then

Sharing about the Malay wedding process from 80 years ago, she said that everything has changed now. Back then, matchmaking weddings by parents were prevalent within the community. Girls as young as 16 were already reserved to marry their grooms, who were typically five to ten years older.

Kak Kajuk added that the process included stages such as merisik, bertekul, mereia, berlulut, and the akad nikah. Explaining each, she revealed that merisik is when the groom’s family expresses their intention to marry.

“Bertekul is the negotiation between two families and the presentation of a ring as a symbol of reservation to marriage. Mereia is when the wedding gifts (hantaran) are presented. By this stage, the bride and groom usually have yet to meet.”

On the wedding day, during the akad nikah, the bride and groom are asked to walk together to a nearby river to throw betel leaves. While this is symbolic, Kak Kajuk explained that it represents the couple’s first walk together as a married couple.

“This is usually done after the solemnisation and swearing of the groom while the bride waits in her room,” she said.

During the akad nikah, Kak Kajuk also assists the newlyweds with their nasi temuan as a symbol of their first meal after being married.

Today, Kak Kajuk shared that the wedding process has become much simpler, as couples these days know each other and matchmaking weddings are less common, especially in urban areas.

A traditional touch

As a tukang hias who upholds the traditional elements of a Malay wedding, Kak Kajuk still dresses her brides in the traditional gajah oleng attire. A heritage to remember, the headpiece and neckpiece worn by the bride are made of plated gold.

It takes up to 40 minutes to install the pieces one by one. Kak Kajuk’s gajah oleng pieces and attire date back a hundred years, as they are her family’s heirloom.

“The gajah oleng that I have today is over a hundred years old, a collection from my grandmother’s tukang hias days. Therefore, it is a delicate tradition.”

Asked how she maintains it, Kak Kajuk says she wipes it with a soft cloth to clean it. She also recently sent it for retouching on the gold-plated pieces.

As part of Malay wedding traditions, the gajah oleng is experiencing a revival in modern times, as young generations seek to practice it on their wedding day. However, this symbolic wedding attire, like the art of tukang hias, is seeing its sunset.

For Kak Kajuk, she hopes that this tradition will continue, as it is a key part of the Malay community’s identity that dates back centuries.