Kinchin’s Resepi Tabas serves up traditional S’wak Dayak ‘pansuh’ dishes with a modern twist at Langkau Arau, Stutong

Kinchin pours out meat dishes from a 'pansuh' at his stall.

By Wilfred Pilo

KUCHING, March 25: It has been a new culinary experience for Kinchin Ringah, a 37-year-old Dayak food operator who has spent the past month sharing his family’s traditional recipes at Langkau Arau Rumah Asap Dayak, Jalan Stutong, steadily introducing urban diners to traditional Dayak dishes.

Of mixed Bidayuh and Iban heritage, from a young age, Kinchin’s connection to food began long before he ever stepped into a commercial kitchen. Growing up in his village, the nearby secondary forest served more than just a backdrop; it serves a regular source for procuring nature’s finest ingredients.

Kinchin Ringah

It was there that he learned to recognise and gather ingredients that would later define his cooking: wild herbs, forest shoots, and fragrant plants that rarely make their way into modern kitchens.

For over 20 years, since leaving school at 15, his family’s kitchen has been a special place where he his culinary skills. Under the guidance of his mother and other family members, he learned to master the techniques and flavours of Dayak cooking.

“Naturally, at the new culinary set-up in my kitchen, I use our local herbs to flavour my meat and fish recipes, which I serve in my stall. These include local ginger, ‘daun bunkang’ (local bay leaves), lemongrass, ‘bunga kantan’ (torch ginger flower), and ‘upak tepus’ (wild ginger stems).

“They are the foundation of my cooking, delivering unique tastes that truly represent Dayak cuisine.

“Now, as a newcomer to this culinary scene, I’m bringing the flavours of rural Sarawak to an urban eatery, with a bit of innovation to match our customers’ tastes,” he shared with DayakDaily.

Pork (top left) and ‘Ikan Keli’ (top right) right are served in a clay pot, while glutinous rice in a bamboo culm is served in a steam basket container.

His signature dishes are cooked using a method well-known to locals; the ‘pansuh’, where meat or fish is sealed in bamboo culms and slow-cooked over fire, allowing the natural aromas to infuse every bite.

“At my stall, I serve ‘pansuh’ pork, chicken, and ‘ikan keli’ (local riverine catfish) or other freshwater fish as my main dishes, along with wild vegetables like bamboo shoots and ferns, such as the well-known ‘paku’ and ‘midins’.

“I want my patrons to become accustomed to and appreciate the taste of Dayak heritage cooking.

“For now, I’m serving this menu to locals who crave these dishes, and they are available at my food stall,” he added.

‘Ikan Keli’ pansuh (right) and pork pansuh served at Kinchin’s Resepi Tabas, Langkau Arau Rumah Asap Dayak, Stutong.

To improve the presentation of his food to patrons, Kinchin has reimagined the way traditional Dayak dishes are served. He opts for miniature plates, ala Japanese-style presentation, alongside Chinese-style steamed baskets, while his signature dishes are brought out in clay pots, gently reheated before being served.

“For cold dishes like ‘umai’ (traditional raw fish dish) and ‘sayur kerabu’ (traditional Malaysian salad), I use miniature plates, similar to how Japanese sushi is presented, to make them both appealing and easy to serve,” he explained.

Adapting to the pace of a bustling eatery, he said, has felt surprisingly familiar. Kinchin likened it to the festive ‘Gawai’ celebration, with its lively atmosphere and gathering of people enjoying a variety of food.

Cold dishes, such as bamboo shoots, wild ferns like ‘Paku’, and midin, are displayed on small plates, reminiscent of sushi presentation at Resepi Tabas, Langkau Arau Rumah Asap Dayak, Stutong.

“I am used to preparing dishes during festivals, so after a month here, I’ve gotten used to the ambiance and characters of the patrons,” he chuckled.

Grateful for the opportunity, Kinchin credited his family for allowing him to bring his own interpretation of Dayak cuisine to the city. Based on the response so far, he is optimistic that his culinary tastes, learned from his family, are acceptable.

“My prices are reasonable, so everyone can afford to try my dishes. I’ve ensured my makeshift hearth fireplace (metal barrel pit) continues to glow to ensure my ‘pansuh’ cooking continues.”

“I hope to introduce more Dayak food here with a little culinary twist so people could acquire the taste they know,” he smiled.

Kinchin Ringah’s Resepi Tabas is located at Langkau Arau Rumah Asap Dayak Stutong, Jalan Stutong.

Kinchin’s stall, The Recipe Tabas, is located at Langkau Arau Rumah Asap Dayak Stutong, Jalan Stutong, Kuching. It is open daily from 5pm to 10.30pm. For more information, call 011-26727122. – DayakDaily