Preserving heritage in every sip of tuak

AS a child, Martiana Chia often watched her Bidayuh grandmother brew tuak at the longhouse on weekends, using a family recipe which has been handed down through generations.

Her grandmother – Margaret Dobin Rasa – doesn’t rely on any measuring tools; her process is all about ‘agak-agak’ (using her instincts). She’s been crafting this rice wine since her teenage years, relying on her experience and intuition.

“She’s been faithfully following a family recipe passed down through generations. It’s like a ‘secret’ recipe, with roots tracing back 150 years.

“For many years, Grandma Rasa only brewed it for our family, close relatives, and friends, even though we tried to persuade her to sell it beyond our circle,” she said.

Initially, Grandma Rasa, in her late 70s, hesitated to do so; as she was aware that many other families were already selling this rice wine.

However, she suffered a minor stroke two years ago and it was then that Chia realised the imperative need to safeguard this cultural tradition for future generations.

“It’s not just about brewing; it’s a part of us as Bidayuh—a piece of our identity,” she emphasised.

Freshly pounded ginger and turmeric using pestle and mortar (PHOTO CREDIT: The Rasa Family)

The Rasa Family’s ginger tuak (PHOTO CREDIT: The Rasa Family)

The Rasa Family’s ginger tuak (PHOTO CREDIT: The Rasa Family)

The Rasa Family

In 2021, Chia founded and started The Rasa Family, selling tuak crafted with local ginger, which is spicier and rice sourced from farms in the region.

She admitted that the process of learning to brew the rice wine was not an easy task as she was struggling on how much each ingredient should be added in.

“But we managed to work it out by me constantly interrupting her, forcing her to pour them into measuring cups for me before mixing the ingredients in together,” she laughed.

She also shared that her family still holds onto some superstitions, even though they are Christians, especially Grandma Rasa believes in them (superstitions) during the tuak-making process. Among them are: –

• Avoid cursing or gossiping near the tuak; it brings negative energy.
• Be careful not to trip or fall in front of the tuak; it’s believed to bring misfortune.
• Don’t kick or knock the tuak jar; it might disturb the tuak and make it sour.
• Keep anything citrus away while brewing; it’s thought to turn the tuak sour.
• Avoid opening the tuak jar lid; it’s seen as lacking confidence in the brew and might spoil it.
• Women on their periods are told not to brew; it’s believed it might affect the tuak’s quality.

Chia, a Chinese-Bidayuh said tuak is more than just a product; it is a cultural legacy, thus, she did not sell it using the same marketing strategies she applied for her jewellery business.

“Our audience supports us not just for the product but for the story we share—a vital part of our identity,” she said.

Beyond retailing tuak, they extended their services to include cocktail bars and catering for special occasions, infusing gatherings with the essence of tradition and celebration.

For now, she said, The Rasa Family will continue to remain as a humble family business as what matters most is preserving the heritage while making a livelihood, sharing smiles, and cherishing moments together.

The Rasa Family’s ginger tuak (PHOTO CREDIT: The Rasa Family)

Grandma Rasa and her ginger tuak (PHOTO CREDIT: The Rasa Family)

Challenges as a young tuak brewer
Apart from the difficulties in mastering the skills in crafting tuak, the 23-year-old also faced challenges due to her age and gender.

In an “industry” mostly dominated by men, where men are often seen as superior drinkers while women are doubted in handling alcohol, it’s been tough.

“To overcome these hurdles, I share my and my grandma’s story. Knowing my roots, my purpose, and my grandma’s remarkable history empowers me.

According to Chia, Grandma Rasa from Kampung Serasot in Bau was a single mother raising three children; she was also the eldest among seven siblings, who didn’t have the privilege to attend school but ensured all her young siblings received education.

“Her strength inspires me and keeps me going. I aim to mirror that resilience and strength (as my grandma),” she added.

Tuak, in the modern-day
Tuak is now more approachable and welcoming, as brewers are now more accessible due to technology; while tuak brewers no longer stay hidden but openly sell their rice wine.

“Now, we have the luxury of choosing different tuak flavours.

“In the past, getting tuak was quite a task. I remember a Chinese friend’s dad mentioning how, years ago, they had to ask numerous connections just to find someone who made tuak,” she said.

The rice wine, she said, is no longer just about traditional flavours like original or ginger anymore. Some brewers love the challenge of creating unique flavours like passionfruit, banana, or tea-infused tuak! Bars and restaurants have also embraced tuak, mixing it into cocktails and serving it in various hospitality settings.

Back then, tuak used to be bottled in transparent plastic due to limited choices. However, things have evolved.

The Rasa Family’s tuak now comes in a variety of bottles with different shapes and sizes. They have labels and added decorative elements that enhance the overall appearance of the product.

“Additionally, I have noticed that many from my generation, particularly Gen Z, are passionate about preserving traditions.

“They’re vocal about societal issues and are fighting to keep traditions alive. I’ve seen many of my peers introducing tuak to their non-Dayak family members, advocating for the tradition to be appreciated and continued,” she added.

Hopes and wishes
Personally, Chia hopes to collaborate with larger companies for events, supplying her tuak to bars and restaurants, and having it featured on supermarket shelves, wine stores, and exclusive lifestyle consignment shops.

She also dreams of partnering with a glass-recycling company to initiate a loyalty rewards programme, benefitting the local community from the profits of the breweries.

As for the community level, she wishes to be involved establishing accessible tuak distilleries and conducting further research on tuak, delving into its yeast, microorganisms, and more.

Chia hoped to see tuak to have more and extensive international coverage like what has been done on red wine.

“I also hope that Sarawak will have  a one-stop centre or retail outlet for tuak and local snacks – like a premium establishment, similar to tourist shops, offering an array of local delights like tuak, chocolates, coffee beans, pepper, local salt, and gula apong,” she said.

Chia believes that tuak making could significantly contribute to tourism in Sarawak, where tourists have the chance to witness and join in communal gatherings featuring tuak, or experiencing traditional ritual dances where tuak plays a role.

Meanwhile, pairing local Dayak food with tuak could also be an enticing cultural experience.

She envisions that those interested in authentic experiences would schedule their visit during Gawai season, knowing they can savour genuine tuak during this special celebration.

It’s akin to a local OctoberFest but centred around Gawai festivities, offering a unique cultural immersion.