Sustaining cultural identity via culinary heritage

KUCHING: The recent forum titled “Preserving Heritage Cuisine” gathered distinguished speakers and enthusiastic participants focused on the importance of culinary heritage in promoting identity and sustainability.

The event featured Datin Dona Drury Wee from the Culinary Heritage & Arts Society Sarawak, Dr. Muhammad Safuan Abdul Latip from Universiti Teknologi MARA, and Professor Dr. Mohd Salehuddin Mohd. Zahari from Universiti Teknologi MARA Puncak Alam.

The session was moderated by Dr. Elena Gregoria Chai Chin Fern from the Ministry of Tourism, Creative Industry & Performing Arts Sarawak.

This discussion took place during the 3rd Education in Hospitality and Tourism Forum (EHTF) in conjunction with the 1 Asia Pacific Summit for Event Leaders (APSEL) 2024 at Ballroom 1 & 2, Level 4, UCSI Hotel Kuching on Thursday.

Defining culinary heritage

Mohd Salehuddin described heritage as integral to our history and identity, linking it to our cooking methods and ingredients.

“Culinary heritage reflects the diverse ethnic and religious backgrounds of our communities and the importance of passing this knowledge through generations to sustain both identity and international recognition.

“Despite the potential for gastronomic tourism, we noted that Malaysia is falling behind countries like Indonesia in promoting its culinary heritage,” he said at the 3rd Education in Hospitality and Tourism Forum (EHTF) in conjunction with the 1 Asia Pacific Summit for Event Leaders (APSEL) 2024 at Ballroom 1 & 2, Level 4, UCSI Hotel Kuching yesterday (Oct 24).

He encouraged the younger generations to engage with and promote traditional food, fostering greater appreciation for Malaysia’s rich culinary diversity.

Climate change and food security

Safuan responded by highlighting the relationship between heritage cuisine and local ingredients.

“Heritage cuisine is closely tied to the specific geographical region it comes from,” he noted, citing Terengganu as an example where local seafood is key to traditional dishes like Keropok Lekor and Laksam.

He stressed that using local ingredients not only fosters sustainability but also strengthens the local economy by reducing dependence on imports.

Addressing food waste management, he explained how traditional methods can preserve seasonal ingredients like durian through practices such as making tempoyak.

“This approach minimises waste while keeping our culinary heritage alive,” he said, linking it to Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) 12 and 13, which focus on responsible consumption and climate action.

Culinary tourism and regional preservation

Dona highlighted the role of culinary tourism in safeguarding regional and indigenous cuisines.

She proudly mentioned that Kuching is recognised as a UNESCO City of Gastronomy, a status that attracts travellers seeking authentic culinary experiences.

“This recognition highlights not just the food, but the complete experience, including education and sustainable practices,” she explained.

She pointed out the increasing trend of travellers desiring genuine cultural experiences post-COVID-19, stating, “Kuching has much to offer with its unique ingredients and cooking experiences that showcase our rich culinary heritage.

“By promoting traditional dishes like monkey cups and regional specialties such as tomato mee, culinary tourism can generate demand for local ingredients and benefit local economies,’ she said.

Balancing heritage with modernisation

The conversation shifted to the challenges of adapting culinary practices while preserving heritage with Safuan expressing concern about the potential loss of traditional cooking methods due to modern conveniences.

“While technology can assist in preparation, it can also compromise the authenticity of heritage cuisine,” he remarked.

He emphasised the need for communities to find practical solutions that allow them to adapt while maintaining the essence of traditional cooking.

“Using fresh ingredients is crucial, but accessibility is a challenge. For example, fresh grated coconut can be hard to find, leading people to use substitutes,” he explained. He encouraged communities to balance traditional methods with modern lifestyles.

Protecting traditional techniques

In her final remarks, Dona discussed how chefs and food businesses can help protect traditional cooking techniques.

“Many people view traditional methods as outdated, but chefs can incorporate them into modern menus to highlight their value,” she suggested.

Workshops and conferences play a vital role in sharing knowledge and fostering pride in traditional culinary practices. She also raised concerns about endangered ingredients, such as the monkey cup.

“While promoting unique dishes, we must ensure that sourcing is sustainable to prevent resource depletion,” she cautioned.

The “Preserving Heritage Cuisine” forum underscored the essential role of culinary heritage in shaping identity, supporting local economies, and promoting sustainability.

Through culinary tourism and community involvement, Malaysia can enhance its culinary identity and share its rich heritage with the world.

In summary, preserving heritage cuisine involves more than just maintaining recipes; it encompasses sustaining cultural identity, bolstering local economies, and contributing to sustainable practices.