Refreshed with new flavours, Umai still a crowd favourite

Normal umai (left) with umai sambal jeb.

By Yvonne T

MUKAH, Feb 21: Umai, often described as Sarawak’s version of sashimi, is closely tied to the Melanau community.

Simple in preparation but bold in taste, the dish is known for its sharp combination of sour lime and fiery chilli, a flavour profile that many Sarawakians instantly recognise and crave.

Originally, umai was a practical meal for Melanau fishermen. Out at sea, with no access to a stove, they would slice and debone freshly caught fish into thin pieces and soak it in lime juice to cure it.

Onion, shallots, chilli and salt were then added, creating a dish that was refreshing, spicy and satisfying after hours on the water.

Over time, umai evolved beyond its humble beginnings. From a basic mixture of fish and lime, it gradually became more layered in taste and texture.

Traditionally eaten with baked sago pellets, umai today sometimes comes topped with crushed peanuts or grated green mango for added crunch and tanginess.

Another popular variation is umai sambal jeb, or umai cecah, where the fish is mixed with sambal for extra heat. The newer version has found a steady following, especially among those who prefer a stronger kick.

At Pasar Tamu Mukah, the demand for umai remains steady.

Aluwi Jalkit preparing umai at Pasar Tamu Mukah.

Even at 3pm, several sellers were still busy preparing and packing the dish, long after the morning rush.

“During school holidays like this, there is a lot of demand for this. We can sell about 60 to 70 packs of umai per day,” said Aluwi Jalkit, an umai maker at the market.

He noted that many of his customers are travellers passing through Mukah.

Abu Bakar, another umai seller at Pasar Tamu Mukah, introduced his own twist in 2010, five years after he began selling at the market in 2005. He experimented with mixing the fish with sambal, creating what is now known as umai sambal jeb.

Abu Bakari preparing umai at Pasar Tamu Mukah.

The idea started as something he simply wanted to try. Today, the variation has grown popular enough that other stalls also offer it alongside the traditional lime-based version.

While flavours and presentations may change, umai remains rooted in its origins, a dish that reflects both the resourcefulness of Melanau fishermen and the evolving tastes of a new generation. – DayakDaily